Well I finally got my wings! Or rather a pile of parts that will (one day) become wings. You basically get 2 crates in the mail. One of them is about 8 feet long by 4 feet wide, and it contains things like the fiberglass wingtips, wing skins, etc. The other box is a whopping 16 feet long by 1 foot wide and it contains lots of things such as a huge bag of parts (rivets, etc). The hardware in this kit is easily 3 or 4 times as much as stuff that what came in the emp kit. The coolest thing in that 16' long crate are the beautiful wing spars! The pic above is of the right wing spar. It is very well made and comes with corrosion protection already done (yellow color). Each spar is 10 feet long. Here is another shot of the right spar. These rivets along the edges are much larger than the rivets in other parts of the kit. Good thing since this is the main load bearing member of the wing! The first thing you do once you inspect the spars is label them for orientation (top, bottom, outboard, inboard), etc. Next you cleco the tank attach nutplates to the spar. Be careful! There are other nutplates on the spar as well but they are for the bottom inspection plates. Those come later. After you cleco the nutplates on you need to drill them to #40 because they will accept a AN426-3-4 rivet later on. After that I countersunk the nutplate attach holes that will accept the rivets. Notice that because of the countersinking I have exposed raw aluminum (took off the gold color). You need to spot-prime these exposed parts so that no corrosion occurs over time. I just sprayed some primer on scrap cardboard and used a small paintbrush to swab the material. Next, I riveted the nutplate onto the spar. No sweat. Here I have riveted a nutplate onto the spar. The green stuff is primer that I swirlled around the countersunk holes. Also, the blue tape is to prevent metal shavings from getting into the cracks between pieces of the spar that have been riveted together. After I riveted the nutplate on, I followed Vans instructions and used a #30 countersink but to countersink the screw hole. This is needed because the fuel tank skin will lay over this hole (with a dimple), and the dimple will nestle into this countersunk area. Anyway, many builders tackle these countersunk holes in different ways....I think Vans method works just fine. As the countersink cutter descends into the hole, it will chatter. But as you go deeper the nutplate guides it into place and the hole comes out nice. Note that the nutplate itself didn't get 'cut' by the countersink cutter. And here are all of my tank-attach platenuts installed and the screw hole countersunk. Done with the tank attach platenuts (for the right wing, anyway)!